Market stalls explode in color. Bright nets drape like flags, boxes of fresh tulawila and sprats glint with silver, chilis and limes sit in neat, hot pyramids. The air is a brine-laced perfume punctuated by sizzling oil from a skillet where onion and curry leaves hiss into life. Women with baskets on their heads nod as they pass, already calculating how a favored badu number might ease a debt or buy a sack of rice. Children dart between legs, pocketing coins and stories with equal appetite.